At the point when individuals get some information about how I came to be my identity, or what propelled me as a child, I more often than not enlighten them concerning the North Shore of Oahu.
To start with, however, I discuss my mother.
She surfs each day. Continuously has. When I was growing up, she was on the water any shot she got. Furthermore, right up 'til the present time, when she's not working or surfing, my mother is at the skate stop. She cherishes skating nearly as much as she adores surfing.
I recollect these circumstances when I was super youthful, similar to eight or thereabouts, and the waves were really huge … and I was somewhat terrified to go out on my board. My mother wouldn't influence me to go, or weight me, or anything like that. She'd simply take a gander at me and sort of shrug her shoulders and say, "O.K., well I'm going out."
It resembled … O.K., bye.
Furthermore, I'd recently sort of take a gander at her like, Wait … what? You're going out?
This is at Pipeline, mind you, directly before our home on the shoreline on the North Shore. There are huge waves in the winter. Genuine stuff. What's more, this is my mother.
Simply prepared to paddle out on her longboard and have a great time and see what happens.
I could've remained back, without a doubt.
Be that as it may, what was I going to do ... lounge around on the shoreline and watch my mother surf? No chance.
So I'd take after her out into the sea.
Also, each and every time I did that, I'd have a ton of fun. I never thought twice about it.
Thus, better believe it, that is my first motivation. Certainly. My mother. She's work of art.
My mother additionally gave me the epithet John - she'd initially heard it utilized for JFK Jr. What's more, she's the one in charge of my adoration for the North Shore. She worked extremely hard so my two more youthful siblings and I could live ideal on the shoreline with her at Pipe.
I think many individuals accept surfing came simple for me. Be that as it may, that is certainly not the situation.
I began contending in occasions when I was extremely youthful. One aftereffect of that is you wind up losing a great deal.
At to begin with, that was fine. As a super youthful child, I cherished heading out around to various islands for small surfing occasions since I met such huge numbers of companions that way. It was only a fun method to spend your ends of the week. We'd all pack up and go to Kauai or Maui, and the challenge would be on and you would simply be hanging out with your companions throughout the day.
Everything about that was entertaining.
Be that as it may, when I chose to contend in the Qualifying Series for a spot on the World Surf League Championship Tour, the losing part moved toward becoming, I don't know … less fun.
I simply continued losing and losing and losing. I was no place close qualifying. I'd influence one to warmth, and after that I would lose once more. Also, it simply proceeded with like that for a few years.
At a certain point I considered surrendering it and accomplishing something unique.
Appropriate around the time when I was contemplating taking another way is the point at which I crushed my spirit surfing at Pipe.
I was 18, and it was the sort of wave I'd ridden a million times. In any case, the sea is erratic, particularly at Pipeline … and for reasons unknown this wave chose that, rather than zooming, it would ascend and afterward hammer down appropriate on my back.
I was out for four months, which was ruthless.
But since of this damage, my entire attitude moved. I was so eager to get back in the water and surf once more, and inside multi year I met all requirements for the Championship Tour.
By then I kind of acknowledged what had been keeping me down for so long in rivalries.
It was about my approach.
Essentially, what I cherish most about surfing is being out on the sea with my companions. Simply giggling and having a ton of fun and getting a charge out of whatever the waves bring our direction.
Indeed, even in harsh circumstances, you know, it's as yet fun. You can be getting just totally beat up by the sea, and when you're out there with your companions or your siblings, and everybody's in it together, out of the blue you end up chuckling and clowning with each other and resembling, "That was so wiped out." Something that would be alarming, some way or another … it's amusing.
Furthermore, there's something, I don't know … not aggressive … about that.
In this way, better believe it, a couple of years back I understood that I'd essentially been free surfing amid occasions since I began contending. What's more, that had been fine when I was more youthful and not endeavoring to qualify.
In any case, after all that losing, and after I crushed my spirit, I went to an acknowledgment that rivalries are really an extremely one of a kind chance to become acquainted with yourself better, since you have these high points and low points and you need to make sense of how to manage those feelings.
I began to consider rivalries to be an opportunity to find out about myself. Furthermore, that is the point at which I truly began moving forward. Presently, as abnormal as it is to state, I nearly surmise that rivalries are more rationally satisfying for me than free-surfing sessions.
I simply expected to delve in and make it about learning at swellsurfcamp.
From that point forward, everything changed for me....
I can't generally say for certain what this year will bring.
Despite everything i'm kind of loosening up from this past season, and it truly hasn't completely soaked in that I won my second world title. Everything happened so quick.
You put a great deal of diligent work into it consistently, and you're so dedicated thus centered around every occasion that you sort of forget about where you are in the year. Not in the standings … like on the logbook, in the real year.
And afterward, out of the blue, you're toward the end and it resembles, "Goodness amazing, I'm coming into Pipe, the last rivalry of the year, and I'm driving this thing at this moment."
Before you know it, the entire thing is finished, and you're attempting to consider what next season may resemble.
One thing I know without a doubt is that, as much as things have changed for me in the course of recent years, such a large amount of what I'm about has continued as before. What's more, I don't see it being any unique in 2018.